I arrived to Colombia HUNGRY.  I had been coming from the unforgettable San Blas Islands, where my diet consisted of rice, plantains, and Flor de Caña for a week.  Cartagena, was the first stop and the most memorable.  ¿Porque?  Love at first sight.  From the moment I saw that Colombiana cracking an egg into a fried arepa and then refrying it, I knew it was love.  After five weeks of arepa overload, I was in serious need of some mixed greens.  How was I supposed to say no when they’re being sold EVERYWHERE and with such variety?????

After Cartagena was Santa Marta, a coastal city that was stocked with ceviche and fresh tropical juices.  There I met an Americana who had just opened up her first business, Cafe Lulo.  She was attempting a New Age organic arepa cafe that the locals were slowly accepting.  With the help of her Colombian novió, Cafe Lulo takes the arepa to a whole new level.  I believe I made four appearances within the span of 3 days.

Cafe Lulo top picks: 

shrimp ceviche & avocado arepa
<3  <3  <3
grilled eggplant & squash, beans, tzatziki, tomato & onion arepa
<3  <3
fried egg, beans, bacon, & avocado arepa
<3  <3  <3

While staying in Medellin, the hostel owner told me about a local man who sells sweet corn arepas with fresh farmers cheese.  “The gaucho sells at the main mercado” she tells me, “and has a small stand in the very back.  He’ll be wearing a big cowboy hat, you can’t miss him.”  She was right.

sweet corn arepas served with fresh farmers cheese wrapped in banana leafs